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You might be surprised to learn that solid wood rarely forms the
cabinet box. It’s more often used in face frames and doors than in the larger
side panel parts. That’s because it tends to warp—a special concern in the
kitchen where the moisture level changes frequently. But in the doors, using
multiple strips of lumber in a variety of sizes can reduce the warp factor. A
“floating” panel might also be used. The panel floats because instead of being
glued to the doorframe, its edges sit between wooden grooves, allowing the wood
to move more freely with changes in the kitchen’s humidity.
Box materials typically contain wood chips, other wood by-products, and
synthetic additives to make them especially strong and warp resistant.
Your options for box material include:
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Plywood |
Particleboard or furniture-grade flakeboard |
Medium-density fiberboard |
All have solid reputations for durability and screw-holding power,
particularly plywood. Medium-density fiberboard has gained a following for its
ability to be formed into door and drawer heads and other decorative features.
Furniture-grade flakeboard offers a stronger alternative than particleboard,
which you’ll pay the least for.
Often the door and box will be constructed of different materials. A cabinet
door might be solid maple and the cabinet box plywood covered with a maple
veneer. The
same finish would be applied to both, unifying the look. Or you may decide you
want different tones on the door and the sides to add contrast.
You’ll want to make sure you know if the finish you like requires a certain base
material, and you’ll want to check out examples of your manufacturer’s work.
Beware of staples! Staples will pull apart. You want cabinets with thick panels
that have been corner blocked and glued or fastened with screws.
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